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Don Modesto
Article and Photography by Joseph Burgess
Published Spring 2006
FINE DINING IN CUIDAD JUÁREZ CONTINUES TO MEET THE CHALLENGES AND EXPECTATIONS OF AN INTERNATIONAL METROPOLIS. EL PASO’S SISTER
CITY OF TWO MILLION INHABITANTS HAS NUMEROUS RESTAURANTS MEETING AND EXCEEDING U.S. STANDARDS AND PROVIDING OUTSTANDING DINING EXPERIENCES. DON MODESTO IN THE MISIONES MALL HAS STEPPED BOLDLY INTO THE JUAREZ ARENA OF CUISINE. THE EXTENSION OF A STRONG CHIHUAHUA FAMILY RESTAURANT OPERATION, ERNESTO BELTRAN AND JOSSIE SIFUENTES GARCÍA HAVE OWNED AND OPERATED RESTAURANTS FOR THIRTEEN YEARS, INCLUDING THE TOP CHIHUAHUA ESTABLISHMENTS OF EL RETABLO, BIGOTE ITALIANO, LOS MESQUITES AND THEIR MOST RECENT ADDITION, EL QUINTAL. JOSSIE TEAMED UP WITH HER SISTER IVONE SIFUENTES DE AGUILAR IN JUÁREZ TO MANAGE DON MODESTO.
The menu includes a broad stroke of traditional dishes from the interior of Chihuahua State, but beef is the differentiating factor for the restaurants. Cattle are farm-fed near Torreón for a period of at least three months under the family’s supervision and aged for eighteen days before being carved daily at the individual restaurants. The waiter brings several raw cuts on chilled platters to the customer’s table for their choosing. The steaks are then open grilled to the requested doneness on a mesquite wood kitchen broiler. Some custom cuts, such as Parrillada Mixta, are finished on a small grill placed in the center of the table for the customer to make the final determination of doneness. All steaks are served with the restaurant’s own special recipe of twice-baked potatoes and fresh salsa.
One of the unique features of Don Modesto is the tableside preparation of salsa. Atray is brought to the table with blanched, roasted plum tomatoes, roasted garlic, cilantro, roasted jalapeños, roasted habaneros and spices. The customer directs the waiter as to what and how much of each is crushed and mixed in the molcajate. Don Modesto dining can certainly be one of participation if desired. Two soups are recommended by the ¡Sabroso! team for their unique ingredients and rich taste. Sopa Antigua is made with nopal (cactus leaf), corn, chile passilla, tomatoes and queso primavera. Poblana Cream includes chiles poblanos, mushrooms, corn, cream and bread croutons.
Also recommended is a specialty appetizer called Platón Paso Del Norte that includes Quesitos Misión (fried fresco cheese in a tomatillo sauce), guacamole, empanadas and carne seca. Each item is unique with great individual flavor. All meals include fresh tortillas, homemade bread, and rolls filled with cream cheese. Also served is a special ramekin of Salsa Vaquera, a mixture of cheese, fresh vegetables, herbs, and jalapeños.
The restaurant interior is contemporary with subtle earth-tone colors appropriate for a state rich in mining and cattle ranching. Tasteful artwork and metal sculpture include murals by Fernando Rascon of Chihuahua City. A Rascon mural at the mall entrance depicts scenes from across the State of Chihuahua.
Don Modesto features live music Thursdays and Fridays, 9:00-11:00 p.m.
To phone from the United States for directions and reservations, dial: 011-52 for Mexico and the number (656) 648-0081. For those not familiar with driving habits on the Mexican side of the border, I suggest taking a taxi for your international experience. Expect excellent food and drink, superb service in a warm, friendly atmosphere and while at the mall you might consider taking in a first-run movie in a VIP theater...ah, but that’s a subject for a future issue.
INFO
Don Modesto
Misiones Mall
Ave. Teofilo Borunda, No. 8681-3
Col. Partido Iglesias
Cd. Juárez, Chih
Phone or Fax: 011-52 (656) 648.0081, 0082
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